We had a
relatively quick border crossing into Georgia and met our local guide, Nutsa,
who will accompany us throughout this country.
Appropriately,
we entered Georgia on St. George’s Day, although they actually celebrate it on
May 6th and November 23rd here.
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Remember - no photos at the border (except this one) |
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Steven - clearly thrilled with winning the "border game" prize |
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Paul and Penelope celebrate St George's Day (April 23) in Georgia! |
Rain stayed
with us right into the seaside city of Batumi but a warm hotel and hot showers
perked everyone’s spirits right up! We had a short walk in the rain along the
promenade to The Ship Restaurant, a boat on land, for our first Georgian feast…
and first try of Georgian wine and the dangerous local fire-water, chacha.
After a few
drinks, the entire group was ready to hit the dance floor! Many locals joined
in and a great time was had by all!
On the way
home, some played rainy night giant chess or checked out the dancing musical
fountains!
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Batumi seaside sculpture |
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Dinner at the Old Ship restaurant |
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Batumi at night |
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Our first Georgian feast with our local guide, Nutsa |
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Everyone tries the Georgian dishes |
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Jodie is happy with khachapuri (cheese bread) and local homemade wine! |
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Louise and Jonathan are happy with their feast! |
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Time for dancing (again!) |
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Juan, Angela & Vai make a train |
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Everyone hits the dance floor |
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The musical fountains are dancing too |
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Jodie and the fountains |
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Batumi at night in lights |
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Jonathan & Louise find giant chess |
The next
day was free to relax, explore or find new adventures. Some walked along the
promenade to see the wonderful displays of art and statues, some took their
travels to the sky on the cable car to get good city views, some admired the
unique architecture and buildings.
Paul and
Dave had the dubious ‘pleasure’ of a visit to the dentist.
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Dave goes to the dentist and has to wear plastic booties |
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Paul getting a wisdom tooth pulled |
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Another sculpture... nope, it's McDonalds! |
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Some steak found in Batumi |
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Steak and 4 chips... yes, 4 |
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Lindsay is definitely the winner on chips |
Woke up to
a strange yellow ball in the sky…. Oh, the sun!!! Happy days! We drove on to
Georgia’s second largest city, Kutaisi with a stop en route to see the Prometheus
Caves…. Yes, it was sunny and we explored underground! That figures!
While the
sun was still out, we decided to dry out our wet tents that were packed away in
Sumela. The locals probably thought we were setting up our camp in the parking
lot!
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Christine and Steven getting Penelope cleaned up for her drive to Kutaisi |
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Bye bye Batumi |
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On our way to Kutaisi |
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Paul enjoying the scenic drive |
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Leaving the snow where it belongs |
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Dave & Jodie enjoy our local lunch stop |
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Prometheus caves |
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Making the most of the sunshine - drying the tents as the group visits the caves |
Road works
prevented us from taking our truck up to the homestay the normal way so we
struggled with even narrower, windy, and extremely busy, cobblestone streets
but we made it!
The group
enjoyed 2 nights at our home overlooking the city. Georgian food and wine kept
everyone happy! Some tried khinkali (dumplings) and all tackled more khachapuri
(cheese bread).
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The usual road to homestay was dug up... so we had to find an alternative... |
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The great view of Kutaisi from our homestay made the tricky drive worthwhile. |
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Kutaisi |
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The group got into a serious game of Uno |
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The Uno winners podium |
Our local
guide, Nutsa, showed the group the nearby Bagrati Cathedral while the crew
shopped for fresh food for camping at the interesting local market.
Some had
fun at the ‘fun fair’, getting great views from the rickety Ferris wheel, while
others enjoyed relaxing at the homestay or getting into a loud and competitive card
game!
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Morning visit to Bagrati Cathedral |
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The ladies don their headscarves to visit the Cathedral |
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Jodie and the molesting minstrel! |
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Emma, Steven, Vai and Angela ride the ferris wheel |
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At the local fun fair |
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Some went on a cable car ride |
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Angela, Vai & Victoria ride the cable car |
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Dave getting a new hat in Kutaisi |
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Steven goes into cardiac arrest at the mere sight of his Acharuli khachapuri! |
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Kutaisi opera house |
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Steven spends his free time ironing |
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Jodie goes wine shopping |
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Chacha, the local firewater |
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Steve & Angela meet a new friend |
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Kutaisi market is a wonderful place to explore |
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Yum, fresh local vegetables purchased by the crew |
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How about chicken for dinner... |
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Or pork? |
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Pork it is - Jodie buys fresh meat for sweet and sour pork camp dinner |
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Local Georgian fruit and nut treats |
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Local vendor |
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Now the big task - to carry it all to the truck |
Next we had
a scenic drive to Gori, birthplace of Joseph Stalin, where the group were
whisked round the Stalin Museum by a guide and given their version of history.
A short drive later, we explored the unique Uplistsikhe cave ‘city’ before
finding a bush camp nearby. Sheep dogs kept us safe and the local police
stopped by… to offer us cheap homemade wine…only in Georgia!
A brief
rain shower prompted us to set up our awning which was also good practice for
future use! Dinner was oriental themed followed by a lovely campfire under the
moon and clear star-filled sky.
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En route from Kutaisi to Gori |
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Fancy gas station and impromptu lunch stop, outside Gori |
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Gori fort |
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Gori was the birthplace of Stalin |
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Steven & Amanda check out Stalin's deck |
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Joe & Juan |
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Stalin's train carriage |
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Paul finds some interesting souvenirs |
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Uplistsikhe cave city |
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We can see you Louise |
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Steve cleaning out his cave |
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Queen Kathie |
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Local lizards |
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Juan impressed by the carved cave |
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Jonathan, Emma & Angela jump for joy at the cave city |
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Mark at Uplistsikhe |
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Jodie gets photobombed by Jonathan |
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Amanda finds the not-so-secret "secret tunnel" |
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Our bush camp at the foot of Uplistsikhe cave city |
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Just a brief shower, but we get to test out our cook awning |
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Jodie and Nutsa perform the ancient Chinese magic trick of turning plastic chips into prawn crackers! |
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Ruth collects some firewood |
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The local authorities drop by... to sell us some wine! |
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Cheers! |
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Jodie & Victoria serve up the sweet & sour pork... |
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...to feed the hungry hordes |
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Campfire "flapping" - good exercise and gets the dishes dry |
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An evening by the campfire |
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'French eggy toast bread' and rice pudding for breakfast, courtesy of Ruth and Mark |
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Amanda trying the local Georgian honey |
Breakfast
included homemade Georgian honey (yum!) before we set off our on very scenic drive
north on the Georgian Military Highway up into the Caucasus Mountains. Lakes, rivers
and farms dotted the landscape and we stopped at the old fortress of Ananuri. We
found a roadside lunch spot by the river with a statue of ‘Gandalf’ and tried
the local Georgian “snickers” and fruit leather/rollups.
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Ruth, Lindsay, Mark, Jodie & Paul at Ananuri fortress |
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Kathie, Jonathan & Louise explore Ananuri |
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View from the tower |
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Victoria descends the tower |
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Juan, Ruth & Jodie at Ananuri |
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Steven goes native |
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Group 'selfie' on board the truck |
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Old Russian vehicles in Pasanauri |
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Watching the Georgian "Gandalf" perform at our lunch stop |
As we
continued north, snow fell and it made our mountainous drive even more magical.
We took a group photo at the Georgian/Russian ‘friendship’ monument.
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Driving up into the mountains |
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The group at the Georgia-Russian monument |
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Jonathan juggles |
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Playing in the snow |
Heavy
snowfall had closed the summer roads and the alternative tunnels were only wide
enough for one direction of trucks at a time so we were delayed waiting for a
convoy, but the group made great use of the time making snow angels and two
snowmen with using bits from the roadside to build faces!
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Heading up to the pass |
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Penelope on the pass |
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Nutsa and Victoria make a snowman |
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Hoping the tunnels are high enough! |
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Snowfall and rockfalls make for interesting driving |
We arrived
into Kazbegi (or Stepantsminda) with the sun shining over the hilltop Gergeti
Trinity church and the spectacular snow-covered peak of Mt. Kazbek. Our lovely
local homestay was very cosy and people enjoyed the great views over this small
village and surrounding mountains. We feasted on Georgian dishes while the wine
and chacha flowed. We had several ‘toasts’ throughout the evening and there was
much sentiment, love and laughter.
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Arriving at our homestay in Kazbegi |
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The view from our homestay |
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Our host brings the chacha and Mark starts the round of toasts |
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Christine & Dave "enjoying" the chacha |
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Louise gets in on the action |
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And it all gets too much for Jonathan! |
After a
hearty breakfast, most people hiked up the hillside to the Gergeti Trinity
church. As the weather is still ‘unseasonal’, the trek up was tough with mud
and snow to plough through. But the church was interesting and the views were
fantastic.
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Waking to the beautiful views of Mt Kazbek |
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The group get ready to hike to Gergeti church |
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Vai hiking through the snow |
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Trekking to the church |
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Almost there Christine! |
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Victoria, Juan & Vai at the Gergeti Trinity church |
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Great views |
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Gergeti Trinity church (or Tsminda Sameba) |
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Louise & Jonathan at the top |
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Don't forget your skirts and headscarves ladies... |
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...and, er, gents... |
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The hills are alive... |
Most were
quite exhausted upon their return to the homestay but that soon changed when
our host ladies showed us how to make local dumplings (khinkali) and filled
breads (khachapuri). We then devoured our own makings at lunch.
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Georgian cookery lessons back at the homestay |
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Paul tries his hand at making khachapuri |
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Our hostess and cookery teacher tries to look impressed |
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Jodie, Dave & Chris enjoying the finished product |
No rest for
the wicked, we were then off to the Russian border by local transport. We
visited a new monastery and had a peek at the border in the distance. We went
into 4x4 action up a boulder trail to a point from where we hiked up to visit
Gveleti waterfall.
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The Georgia - Russia border post |
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Archangel monastery near the border |
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These 4x4 Lada taxis can go anywhere! |
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Jodie & Paul with the Lada driver |
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Dave, Paul & Steven work on their catalogue poses at Gveleti waterfall |
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Mark & Juan at the falls |
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Yet another Georgian feast |
There was
time for relaxation before our next feast and more wine and chacha. Time to
leave Kazbegi or we may never do so, thanks to our lovely homestay and all
their wonderful food.
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Christine takes her floor mopping very seriously |
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Leaving Kazbegi |
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Heading back through the mountains... |
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...and the tunnels |
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Driving back down to the Georgia-Russia monument and Gudauri |
Returning
back down from the mountains we went on our way to Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital
city. En route we stopped at Mtskheta, the religious heart of Georgia, to
wander through the holiest of churches.
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Svetitskhoveli Cathedral at Mtskheta |
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Inside the cathedral |
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Priest reading out prayers |
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Jvari Monastery |
We arrived
in to Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, for our two night stay in the historical
district. Torrential rain fall occurred in the early evening which made for
some interesting sights and experiences for those already exploring and wi-fi outages for those who stayed in the hotel (or maybe it was them that caused the
black-outs in town by overloading the system?!).
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Flooded streets in Tbilisi |
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Tbilisi by night |
The sun
came out the next day in time for our walking tour by Nutsa. We visited many
sights followed by a free afternoon to do our own exploring! The sunshine made
a real difference… some donning summer wear while catching a few precious rays!
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View from the hotel to our truck and some of the sights of Tbilisi |
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Penelope at the Metekhi church |
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Metekhi Church |
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Nutsa took everyone on a city tour |
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Interesting architecture |
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View across Tbilisi |
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Looking over the river to Tbilisi's old town and fortress |
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Kathie discovers a waterfall in the middle of the city |
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Great views from the fortress |
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Nutsa guides us around her home town |
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Beautiful Tbilisi |
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Chris and Angela find a friend |
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The unusual puppet theatre clock tower |
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Juan, Jonathan, Lindsay and Mark hanging out in Tbilisi |
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Streets of Tbilisi |
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It looks like Mr Cadbury has been out with his spray paint |
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Freedom Square |
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St George |
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Jodie at Vinomania |
Many people
didn’t know what to expect from this small, South Caucasus nation, but all have
been impressed with how much Georgia has to offer – the warm hospitality of its
friendly people, the slightly excessive amounts of delicious food and drink,
the spectacular scenery, the churches, monasteries and monuments, and the
fascinating mix of old and new architecture, and there’s still more to see…
We’re to
Armenia next for a short visit but will be returning to beautiful Georgia soon.