Tuesday 12 May 2015

Georgia on my mind

We had a relatively quick border crossing into Georgia and met our local guide, Nutsa, who will accompany us throughout this country.

Appropriately, we entered Georgia on St. George’s Day, although they actually celebrate it on May 6th and November 23rd here.

Remember - no photos at the border (except this one)
Steven - clearly thrilled with winning the "border game" prize
Paul and Penelope celebrate St George's Day (April 23) in Georgia!
Rain stayed with us right into the seaside city of Batumi but a warm hotel and hot showers perked everyone’s spirits right up! We had a short walk in the rain along the promenade to The Ship Restaurant, a boat on land, for our first Georgian feast… and first try of Georgian wine and the dangerous local fire-water, chacha.

After a few drinks, the entire group was ready to hit the dance floor! Many locals joined in and a great time was had by all!

On the way home, some played rainy night giant chess or checked out the dancing musical fountains!

Batumi seaside sculpture
Dinner at the Old Ship restaurant
Batumi at night
Our first Georgian feast with our local guide, Nutsa
Everyone tries the Georgian dishes
Jodie is happy with khachapuri (cheese bread) and local homemade wine!
Louise and Jonathan are happy with their feast!
Time for dancing (again!)
Juan, Angela & Vai make a train
Everyone hits the dance floor
The musical fountains are dancing too
Jodie and the fountains
Batumi at night in lights
Jonathan & Louise find giant chess
The next day was free to relax, explore or find new adventures. Some walked along the promenade to see the wonderful displays of art and statues, some took their travels to the sky on the cable car to get good city views, some admired the unique architecture and buildings.
Paul and Dave had the dubious ‘pleasure’ of a visit to the dentist.

Dave goes to the dentist and has to wear plastic booties
Paul getting a wisdom tooth pulled
Another sculpture... nope, it's McDonalds!
Some steak found in Batumi
Steak and 4 chips... yes, 4
Lindsay is definitely the winner on chips
Woke up to a strange yellow ball in the sky…. Oh, the sun!!! Happy days! We drove on to Georgia’s second largest city, Kutaisi with a stop en route to see the Prometheus Caves…. Yes, it was sunny and we explored underground! That figures!

While the sun was still out, we decided to dry out our wet tents that were packed away in Sumela. The locals probably thought we were setting up our camp in the parking lot!

Christine and Steven getting Penelope cleaned up for her drive to Kutaisi
Bye bye Batumi
On our way to Kutaisi
Paul enjoying the scenic drive
Leaving the snow where it belongs
Dave & Jodie enjoy our local lunch stop
Prometheus caves


Making the most of the sunshine - drying the tents as the group visits the caves
Road works prevented us from taking our truck up to the homestay the normal way so we struggled with even narrower, windy, and extremely busy, cobblestone streets but we made it!

The group enjoyed 2 nights at our home overlooking the city. Georgian food and wine kept everyone happy! Some tried khinkali (dumplings) and all tackled more khachapuri (cheese bread).

The usual road to homestay was dug up... so we had to find an alternative...
The great view of Kutaisi from our homestay made the tricky drive worthwhile.
Kutaisi
The group got into a serious game of Uno
The Uno winners podium
Our local guide, Nutsa, showed the group the nearby Bagrati Cathedral while the crew shopped for fresh food for camping at the interesting local market.

Some had fun at the ‘fun fair’, getting great views from the rickety Ferris wheel, while others enjoyed relaxing at the homestay or getting into a loud and competitive card game!

Morning visit to Bagrati Cathedral

The ladies don their headscarves to visit the Cathedral

Jodie and the molesting minstrel!
Emma, Steven, Vai and Angela ride the ferris wheel
At the local fun fair

Some went on a cable car ride
Angela, Vai & Victoria ride the cable car
Dave getting a new hat in Kutaisi
Steven goes into cardiac arrest at the mere sight of his Acharuli khachapuri!



Kutaisi opera house

Steven spends his free time ironing
Jodie goes wine shopping
Chacha, the local firewater
Steve & Angela meet a new friend
Kutaisi market is a wonderful place to explore
Yum, fresh local vegetables purchased by the crew



How about chicken for dinner...
Or pork?
Pork it is - Jodie buys fresh meat for sweet and sour pork camp dinner
Local Georgian fruit and nut treats
Local vendor
Now the big task - to carry it all to the truck
Next we had a scenic drive to Gori, birthplace of Joseph Stalin, where the group were whisked round the Stalin Museum by a guide and given their version of history. A short drive later, we explored the unique Uplistsikhe cave ‘city’ before finding a bush camp nearby. Sheep dogs kept us safe and the local police stopped by… to offer us cheap homemade wine…only in Georgia!

A brief rain shower prompted us to set up our awning which was also good practice for future use! Dinner was oriental themed followed by a lovely campfire under the moon and clear star-filled sky.

En route from Kutaisi to Gori
Fancy gas station and impromptu lunch stop, outside Gori
Gori fort
Gori was the birthplace of Stalin
Steven & Amanda check out Stalin's deck
Joe & Juan
Stalin's train carriage
Paul finds some interesting souvenirs
Uplistsikhe cave city
We can see you Louise
Steve cleaning out his cave
Queen Kathie
Local lizards
Juan impressed by the carved cave
Jonathan, Emma & Angela jump for joy at the cave city
Mark at Uplistsikhe
Jodie gets photobombed by Jonathan
Amanda finds the not-so-secret "secret tunnel"
Our bush camp at the foot of Uplistsikhe cave city
Just a brief shower, but we get to test out our cook awning
Jodie and Nutsa perform the ancient Chinese magic trick of turning plastic chips into prawn crackers!
Ruth collects some firewood
The local authorities drop by... to sell us some wine!
Cheers!
Jodie & Victoria serve up the sweet & sour pork...
...to feed the hungry hordes
Campfire "flapping" - good exercise and gets the dishes dry
An evening by the campfire
'French eggy toast bread' and rice pudding for breakfast, courtesy of Ruth and Mark
Amanda trying the local Georgian honey
Breakfast included homemade Georgian honey (yum!) before we set off our on very scenic drive north on the Georgian Military Highway up into the Caucasus Mountains. Lakes, rivers and farms dotted the landscape and we stopped at the old fortress of Ananuri. We found a roadside lunch spot by the river with a statue of ‘Gandalf’ and tried the local Georgian “snickers” and fruit leather/rollups.

Ruth, Lindsay, Mark, Jodie & Paul at Ananuri fortress
Kathie, Jonathan & Louise explore Ananuri
View from the tower
Victoria descends the tower
Juan, Ruth & Jodie at Ananuri
Steven goes native
Group 'selfie' on board the truck
Old Russian vehicles in Pasanauri
Watching the Georgian "Gandalf" perform at our lunch stop
As we continued north, snow fell and it made our mountainous drive even more magical. We took a group photo at the Georgian/Russian ‘friendship’ monument.

Driving up into the mountains
The group at the Georgia-Russian monument
Jonathan juggles
Playing in the snow
Heavy snowfall had closed the summer roads and the alternative tunnels were only wide enough for one direction of trucks at a time so we were delayed waiting for a convoy, but the group made great use of the time making snow angels and two snowmen with using bits from the roadside to build faces!

Heading up to the pass
Penelope on the pass

Nutsa and Victoria make a snowman
Hoping the tunnels are high enough!
Snowfall and rockfalls make for interesting driving
We arrived into Kazbegi (or Stepantsminda) with the sun shining over the hilltop Gergeti Trinity church and the spectacular snow-covered peak of Mt. Kazbek. Our lovely local homestay was very cosy and people enjoyed the great views over this small village and surrounding mountains. We feasted on Georgian dishes while the wine and chacha flowed. We had several ‘toasts’ throughout the evening and there was much sentiment, love and laughter.

Arriving at our homestay in Kazbegi
The view from our homestay
Our host brings the chacha and Mark starts the round of toasts
Christine & Dave "enjoying" the chacha
Louise gets in on the action
And it all gets too much for Jonathan!
After a hearty breakfast, most people hiked up the hillside to the Gergeti Trinity church. As the weather is still ‘unseasonal’, the trek up was tough with mud and snow to plough through. But the church was interesting and the views were fantastic.

Waking to the beautiful views of Mt Kazbek
The group get ready to hike to Gergeti church
Vai hiking through the snow
Trekking to the church
Almost there Christine!
Victoria, Juan & Vai at the Gergeti Trinity church
Great views
Gergeti Trinity church (or Tsminda Sameba)
Louise & Jonathan at the top
Don't forget your skirts and headscarves ladies...
...and, er, gents...
The hills are alive...
Most were quite exhausted upon their return to the homestay but that soon changed when our host ladies showed us how to make local dumplings (khinkali) and filled breads (khachapuri). We then devoured our own makings at lunch.

Georgian cookery lessons back at the homestay
Paul tries his hand at making khachapuri
Our hostess and cookery teacher tries to look impressed
Jodie, Dave & Chris enjoying the finished product
No rest for the wicked, we were then off to the Russian border by local transport. We visited a new monastery and had a peek at the border in the distance. We went into 4x4 action up a boulder trail to a point from where we hiked up to visit Gveleti waterfall.

The Georgia - Russia border post
Archangel monastery near the border
These 4x4 Lada taxis can go anywhere!
Jodie & Paul with the Lada driver
Dave, Paul & Steven work on their catalogue poses at Gveleti waterfall
Mark & Juan at the falls
Yet another Georgian feast
There was time for relaxation before our next feast and more wine and chacha. Time to leave Kazbegi or we may never do so, thanks to our lovely homestay and all their wonderful food.

Christine takes her floor mopping very seriously
Leaving Kazbegi
Heading back through the mountains...
...and the tunnels


Driving back down to the Georgia-Russia monument and Gudauri
Returning back down from the mountains we went on our way to Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital city. En route we stopped at Mtskheta, the religious heart of Georgia, to wander through the holiest of churches.

Svetitskhoveli Cathedral at Mtskheta

Inside the cathedral
Priest reading out prayers
Jvari Monastery
We arrived in to Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, for our two night stay in the historical district. Torrential rain fall occurred in the early evening which made for some interesting sights and experiences for those already exploring and wi-fi outages for those who stayed in the hotel (or maybe it was them that caused the black-outs in town by overloading the system?!).

Flooded streets in Tbilisi
Tbilisi by night
The sun came out the next day in time for our walking tour by Nutsa. We visited many sights followed by a free afternoon to do our own exploring! The sunshine made a real difference… some donning summer wear while catching a few precious rays!

View from the hotel to our truck and some of the sights of Tbilisi
Penelope at the Metekhi church
Metekhi Church
Nutsa took everyone on a city tour
Interesting architecture
View across Tbilisi
Looking over the river to Tbilisi's old town and fortress
Kathie discovers a waterfall in the middle of the city
Great views from the fortress

Nutsa guides us around her home town
Beautiful Tbilisi
Chris and Angela find a friend
The unusual puppet theatre clock tower
Juan, Jonathan, Lindsay and Mark hanging out in Tbilisi
Streets of Tbilisi
It looks like Mr Cadbury has been out with his spray paint
Freedom Square
St George
Jodie at Vinomania

Many people didn’t know what to expect from this small, South Caucasus nation, but all have been impressed with how much Georgia has to offer – the warm hospitality of its friendly people, the slightly excessive amounts of delicious food and drink, the spectacular scenery, the churches, monasteries and monuments, and the fascinating mix of old and new architecture, and there’s still more to see…


We’re to Armenia next for a short visit but will be returning to beautiful Georgia soon.